Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Top-Down Raglan Cardi


Yarn: Patons SWS (70% wool and 30% soy), #70013 Natural Earth - 7 balls (110 yd [100m] / 80g)
Pattern: Cosmicpluto Knits! (TKA Project #14)
Needles: Addi Turbo US size 6 (4 mm) / 24" and 32" circulars (for seed stitch border), Addi Turbo US size 8 (5mm) / 24" and 32" circulars (for stockinette portion)
Size: S for chest circumference 32-34"
Start: January 8, 2007
Finish: February 20, 2007

線材: Patons SWS (70% 羊毛 30% 大豆), #70013 Natural Earth - 7 球 (110 yd [100m] / 80g)
圖樣: Cosmicpluto Knits! (TKA Project #14 拉克蘭外套)
針號: 4 mm/60 cm & 80 cm 輪針 (領口, 袖口, 下襬), 5 mm/60 cm & 80 cm 輪針 (平針部份)
尺寸: S (胸圍32-34英吋)
開始: 2007/01/08
完成: 2007/02/20

Honestly I am not quite happy with the result. It is a bit too big at the shoulders and upper arms, and there's also excess in the underarm area. I tried it on several times as I worked on the upper body portion. Somehow everytime I tried it on I was not able to pull the two markers to meet at underarm (an indication to start working the main body), and so I kept on knitting. When I was finally able to meet the two markers, it felt tight and I had to stretch the fabric to do it. I decided to add another 4 rows before starting the main body to give it more room. This turned out to be a wrong decision. The shoulders and upper arms are now too roomy. Knitting the shoulder portion was also a pain. It just seemed never ending. I started with a 24" circular, and had to switch to 32" to accommodate the ever increasing number of stitches.

說實在這件我不是很滿意. 肩膀, 上臂, 腋下都織的太大. 織的時候試穿過好幾次, 可是每次都無法把記號環拉到腋下, 所以就一直織下去囉. 等到我可以拉到記號環時(而且是硬拉的), 覺得有點緊, 於是決定多織四段後再開始織身體部位. 結果顯示, 這個決定是錯誤的啦! 實際上, 可能應該再拆個兩段會比較剛好. 肩膀部位實在是織的很痛苦, 好像怎麼織都織不完的感覺. 覺得自己沒事長那麼大隻幹麼... 本來是用60cm的輪針, 織到後來非得換成80cm來織, 針目多的都快抓不住了.


I kind of screwed up the waist shaping too. It wears and looks as if I started the decreases too low. The pattern has the shaping done every 5 rows. Well, it probably meant every 5th row. For whatever reasons I interpreted it as having 5 rows in between shaping and actually worked the decreases and increases every 7th row. Don't ask, I don't know what I was thinking. Can I blame it on too much late-night knitting?! ;)

腰身減針的部份我做的也不是很好, 穿起來感覺腰線太低. Pattern上是每五段減一次, 我想成每次減針要間隔五段(也就是第六段再減針), 想想不喜歡上針減針, 那再加一段好了... 所以實際上我是每第七段減針... 啊啊... 不知道自己在想什麼... 真是頭殼壞壞去... 大概是熬夜織毛線熬過頭了, 腦筋不清楚... 唉, 我也懶得拆了...


I also had to rework the neckband, bottom hem, and sleeve hems. Initially I worked everything in size 8 needles, including the neckband and bottom hem in seed stitches, which turned out to be terrible looking (see photos below.) I tried size 7 needles on the first sleeve, still puffy. Ripped it out, tried size 6 needles, now, finally, that's more like it. I went back and ripped out the bottom hem and re-knitted it in size 6 needles. For the neckband (it was worked top down), I used the circular needle to pick up all stitches on the first row of the stockinette portion (below the neckband) and unraveled the neckband. Then I worked the neckband from bottom up in size 6 needles. This is the first time I tried a stunt like this. Not fun, but I am glad I did it. The result is much better, and I feel like I've learned something new.

領口, 下襬, 和袖口也重新織過. 本來全部都用美制8號針(織桂花針), 織完領口時覺得怪怪的, 整個領子垮垮的. 織完下襬後覺得這樣實在不行, 織第一隻袖子時便試著用7號針, 還是泡泡的. 拆了, 用6號針重來. 果然, 6號針織出來的比較能看. 袖子織好後, 我把下襬拆了, 用6號針重織. 領口我用輪針把平針部分第一段的針目先挑出來, 把上面桂花針的部分剪斷拆掉, 然後由下往上重織. 從來沒試過這樣做, 其實蠻費時費力, 不過成果還不錯, 至少不必全部拆掉重來.

Before fixing the neckband and the hems:
重織之前的照片:

The neckband kept collapsing...
領子垮垮的...


The bottom hem and the sleeve hem were puffy...
下襬和袖口泡泡的...



Other notes:

The button band is a bit too narrow. The button holes (as per pattern) were too close to the edge, I worked it as follows: k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1. And I worked a button hole every 2 1/4 inches, approximately every 9th row.

Patons SWS is splitty. It's not terrible, but just annoying at times. Knitting the yarn is not too big a problem, and if you do have to unravel, be ready to deal with some tangled mess!

其他:

做釦洞的邊襟部位我覺得5針太窄, 下次再織會加寬. 如瑪姐所說, 釦洞會太靠邊, 所以五針裡第二針就做掛針開釦洞. 大約每2 1/4英吋(每第九段)開一個釦洞.

Patons SWS這線蠻容易分岔, 織的時候還好, 要拆的時候就一個頭兩個大了.


This method of knitting a raglan cardigan is really simple and straight-forward. I have already prepared yarn to make another for my son. I would probably work the button band separately by picking up stitches from the two front panels. This way I can do a 1x1 ribbing all the way around. I think it will look better.

這個織拉克蘭的方法其實很簡單, 省了縫合的工. 我線已經買好了, 打算幫兒子也織一件. 再織的時候可能邊襟釦洞會另外挑針來打鬆緊針, 覺得這樣還是比較好看.

8 comments:

Tcknit said...

吼!真是有夠快的啦!卡B最近一定非常乖,讓妳有這麼多時間完成這麼多成品,羨慕ㄛ!

嗯,妳的功力越來越高了,啥時設計一件自己的毛衣?!期待期待.....

Celia said...

唉... 這件從1/8開打, 織很久了ㄋㄟ. 有快手7-8天就完成了呢!
設計毛衣哦? 沒那麼厲害啦, 恰別人設計好的就恰未完了...

Anonymous said...

我覺得洽的人通常都比較是"完美主義者" (perfectionist), 都會批判自己的成品.
其實你穿的時候是很不錯看的ㄋㄟ.
我也再幫老爺洽一件. 唉喲腰圍38"的打了半天才一點點寬, 真是要我的命哩.
澡知道也不答應替他織了. 現在他一天到晚就一直要我 "pick up the needles and knit my cardigan." 粉煩耶. >"<

Celia said...

瑪姐說的是啊! 因為每一針每一段都是花時間心力來完成的, 瑕疵在那裡自己最清楚了, 總覺得還有進步的空間. 我還沒織過男士毛衣呢, 想到表面積那麼大就覺得粉累... 還好我老公也沒叫我織給他... 不過也是遲早的事啦! 瑪姐要繼續加油喔!

Shirley Hsu said...

哇...真美

看了幾個您的成品
我覺得妳的工很細緻ㄋ
所以成品看起來都像精品...利害唷
看成品有沒有用心這看這點了!

難怪我媽會說我的成品
每次都先說不好看..再說我敷衍了事!
嗯..我也得把"心"放進去..才對!

Shirley

Celia said...

謝謝喔! 用心織的成品特別有成就感呢!
不過也不要給自己太多壓力, 編織應該是種樂趣喔!

handknit168 said...

First time to read your blog, it is very surprise to read the knitting blog in chinese. I like your cardigan in Paton SWS, the colour is beautiful. How is the feeling in knitting yarn with soy, how is the quality, is it more or less same as wool ?

http://handknitisfun.blogspot.com/
handknit168@yahoo.com.hk

Celia said...

Handknit168:
I just sent you an e-mail...